To ensure that you maintain the longevity of your glass, we highly recommend using Piece Water. Piece Water is used as a replacement of water. Made from natural mineral, vegetable and fruit extracts, it works to prevent resin from forming on your bong, rig, water pipe, or bubbler. This means so harmful chemicals! Add Piece Water Solution to a clean bong and your bong will remain clean and clear from resin build up. When you are ready to change your bong's Piece Water Solution simply rinse your pipe with tap water and it will be clean! In addition, Piece Water acts as a filter, which makes for cleaner and much smoother hits.
A very quick clean (moderate to heavily used glass):
Liquid salt cleaners are the best way to quickly clean your glass. Ensure you shake them thoroughly before use to ensure the salt is evenly dispersed. Squeeze out the cleaner into your glass, making sure to cover all surfaces. Shake your glass around for about a minute to release all of the resin from the glass. Thoroughly rinse all of the liquid from your glass after cleaning. If there is any remaining stubborn resin, you may need to soak it.
Deep Soak (heavily used glass):
Deep soaking in a powerful liquid cleaner for at least 2 hours will ensure you can remove all dry caked resin. You won’t need to shake vigorously or risk breaking your glass this way. Once the resin becomes one with the solution, rinse your glass out with hot water to remove remaining resin and chemicals.
Alcohol Wash (moderately used glass):
91-98% Isopropyl Alcohol is more affordable than any products designed specifically to clean glass. Using this in addition to salt as an abrasive will scrub any stubborn caked-on resin off.
How do I take a hit off a bong, pipe or joint?
If you do it correctly, hitting a bong is an amazing experience. The key to hitting from a bong smoothly the first time, is not going too big. When someone hands you a bong, the first thing you’ll want to do is find the carb if there is one (similar to what you’d find on a pipe). Most bongs don’t have a carb, like glass bongs, but some of the plastic ones do. If you are smoking from a bong without a carb it likely is a slide-bong, meaning that you’ll clear the chamber with clean smoke after removing the bowl after lighting it. To start you’ll want to take the smoke in as you are lighting the bowl, and stop lighting the bowl once the chamber is filled with smoke. Once your bowl is full of milky smoke, pull the bowl out (or release the carb) and inhale the smoke. Hold the smoke in for up to three seconds, if you can, without coughing, then exhale. You will cough your first time smoking out of a bong. If you can’t completely clear the chamber in one go, take in what you can, then clear the chamber after you’ve taken your hit. This is why it is important to know how much smoke your lungs can handle. Look at the size of the hits everyone else is taking and take smaller hits if you feel that you can’t handle as much. It’s better to take too small of a hit than take one that is too large and end up coughing or getting sick.
The first thing you want to do is find the carb. If you don’t know what the carb is, it’s that hole next to the bowl that leads into the pipe chamber. Place a finger over the carb as you light the bowl with your other hand. Or you can ask someone to light the bowl for you. As you’re lighting the bowl, inhale the smoke coming through the pipe slowly. For your first hit make sure that you are not inhaling too deeply, otherwise you will end up coughing too much. Once you stop lighting the bowl, release your thumb from the carb and inhale the smoke from the pipe into your lungs. Hold it in and then exhale. When lighting a pipe, try not to torch the entire bowl, just try to light the outside edges.
Lighting a joint is not the same as lighting a cigarette. Light the tip of the joint while puffing to get the end lit up. A great joint will have a rolled end that will ensure that when you light it, the flames will spread evenly around it. If this isn’t occurring, re-light it whilst rotating it to ensure it burns evenly. This will prevent burning only one side. Inhale as you drag off the joint, just as you would a cigarette.
Joint Size Guide
Joints only attach with things like bowls, ashcatchers, nails, etc. that have opposite joint ends. So a male will only connect with a female, and vice versa.
The Joint Size refers to the diameter of the hole that your downstem or bowl will fit into. You will generally find that pieces with smaller joints, like the 10mm, will generally have smaller bowl sizes, and the downstems may clog faster, and the opposite can be true for larger joints like 18.8mm.
There are three main sizes of joints when dealing with water pipes: 10mm, 14.4mm, and 18.8mm. Occasionally you’ll hear people say things like “I have a 9mm joint” when really they mean 10, or a 14mm, when they technically mean a 14.4, and so on. Don’t be worried if someone says they have a 14mm joint and you’re bringing over a 14.4mm bowl, it’s more than likely the same size.
Even if you buy the wrong accessories or bowl pieces, or simply want to use your accessories on all of your pieces, you can always buy adapters. These adaptors attach to your bong’s regular joint and allow for the use of a different sex or size of various other Bowls, Nails, and Tar Catchers.
Nail Buying Guide
It can be confusing trying to find the necessary tools for dabbing because there are so many options. You can use our guide to help you narrow down which one is best for your use.
A dome is used by attaching it over the nail and downstem connection, creating a dome around the heated nail with an open ended top to allow you to reach your dab tools inside to reach the nail. This prevents you from touching the hot nail. The dome also helps to catch some of the escaping vapor to ensure you get the most out of your dab. Domes are usually made from glass and accompany glass nails.
Domeless nails reduce some of the effort required from a domed nail. They are often made from aluminium and typically feature a single connection to the downstem which is connected to a larger heating plate that you would normally find on a domed nail. Here are different types of domeless nails:
Direct Inject - A direct inject nail offers exactly that, a direct path for the vapor to flow into the piece with a heating dish and a slightly raised bowl that flows directly into the downstem.
Daisy - A daisy nail involves a relatively flat or curved surface with slits along the outside of the plate.
Angled Cut - An angled cut design is more for aesthetic appeal than anything else, giving users a visual change from the standard flat nail.
Banger - Banger nails tend to feature a curved or joint-like design that distances the heating dish from your piece. They also tend to have bucket-like heating dishes for better containment of the vaporized concentrate.
Halo - Halo nails offers a very unique design with its arch above the heating plate. The vaporized concentrate rises from the heating dish and enters the slits on the ‘halo’ during the draw.
Material options for Nails:
Ceramic - Ceramic nails are pretty much all domeless. Ceramic is meant to provide the best tasting hit, despite being the nail that takes the longest on average to reach the desired temperature. They are the cheapest type of nail on average however with this low cost, they have a tendency to crack over time, and require more care than other nails to avoid overheating which could shatter it. If you end up heating your ceramic nails evenly and slowly, you should be able to get a long life out of them.
Quartz - Despite looking like glass, Quartz nails are much more durable than glass, and are meant to provide the purest taste for your dabs. They generally are modest in price, but will eventually show their wear after a few months. Quartz nails heat up the fastest out of any of the nails, taking around 20 seconds or less to reach the desired temperature, but they also don’t retain that heat for very long. This can make them quite desirable as the quick temperature change preserves some of your butane, and also reduces the risk of burning yourself on the nail after sooner. They can be used with domes or you can also buy domeless ones.
Titanium - Titanium, like ceramic, is mostly domeless, and is for sure the most durable of all the nail types. It is incredibly unlikely it would break due to dropping damage or heat over time. The downside to the value is that titanium nails are usually the most expensive of the three, and also take a bit longer to heat up when being torched; being approximately 30 seconds or so.
Universal (and Complete):
These terms are used to describe nails that are meant to fit multiple joint sizes or both genders. Complete Universal nails are meant to fit all joint sizes (10mm, 14mm, 18mm) as well as both genders of connection.
Perculator Buying Guide
If you’re unsure what a perculator is, they are glass features that usually sit within a bong’s chamber. They are used to disperse smoke through the water to get the smoothest hit possible. When choosing the right bong with the right perculator, you may want to consider these questions first - How much drag do I want in my piece? Do I want it to have cool effects, or be efficient? Both? Our guide below will help you understand the usefulness of various perculators, and choose the right one for your smoking experience.
Straight/Fitted Downstems - This is the typical standard form of percolation on every bong. They usually have slits or holes at the bottom, or will split into other forms of percolation. However, they are typically simply a glass tube with an opening at the end.
Tree - A Tree perculator allows smoke to filter through 3 – 64 arms. The more arms it has, the more perculation. However, these perculators don’t have as big an impact as a fritted or honeycomb.
Fritted - This is a disc shaped percolator that contains lots of small holes that the smoke filters through. This will add drag, especially in tiered bongs.
Honeycomb - This is another disc percolator that looks similar to a fritted perculator, but contains smaller holes and is generally honeycomb-shaped. The smaller the holes the more percolation, however this will also add drag.
Barrel - A barrel perculator has slits all around the tube for additional percolation.
Showerhead - Showerhead perculators utilise a vertical tube that opens up at the bottom with slits and openings for dispersive percolation.
Cyclone/Turbine - Named after it’s effect, this is a single disc percolator with angled cuts that guide the smoke and water into a tornado formation. This gives an awesome effect while toking.
Dome - The Dome allows smoke to travel through the perculator and escape through small slits and perforations in the bottom of the dome.
Swiss - These perculators look much like the cheese, featuring a wheel-like design with specially designed paths for the smoke to travel through. In a tiered bong, these perculators add some drag.
Grinder Buying Guide
Grinders are useful to grind your herbs to your desired consistency, and also allow you to save some for later, rather than wasting it. Grinding your herbs is better for rolling joints or blunts, and allows you to achieve a better hit. There are different types and styles of grinders which are outlined below for you to choose the right one for you.
Plastic - Plastic grinders are the cheapest option which is great if you’re on the go, or need a quick replacement. With grinders however, you typically get what you pay for. The quality of plastic grinders is not as good as others which means they generally won’t last as long, or grind as well or consistently as the teeth tend to wear.
Wooden - Wooden grinders last longer and work better than plastic grinders and do tend to be more durable. They’re great for grinding your herbs short term, however the teeth are not very sharp and the wood tends to crack after a lot of use. If you’re wanting to store herbs or have a grinder that lasts you a long time, you may want to invest in metal or electric.
Metal - Metal grinders are much higher quality than wood or plastic. They last longer, they won’t rot or crack, and the teeth remain sharp after time. Metal grinders are typically made from aluminium or titanium and serve the purpose of grinding your herbs. Some variations of metal grinders also come with herb catchers to store your herbs and pollen screens to filter them.
Electric - Electric grinders are easily the highest quality grinders on the market with the sharpest blades. They grind your herbs quickly and most efficiently with minimal effort, and can store much more herbs at once. Some are battery operated which makes them portable.
Two Piece – These are the most basic style of grinder with top and bottom pieces with diamond teeth on both sides to grind and separate herbs. There is generally no chamber for catching or storing herbs.
Three Piece – Three Piece grinders have a top, bottom and a middle piece. The top and middle pieces are the grinding pieces for the herb. The bottom chamber catches and stores a small amount of herbs. Those three piece grinders that are meant to help store herbs typically have a mesh screen for catching it that sits under the middle piece’s grinding teeth leading into the bottom chamber.
Four Piece – This grinder has four pieces: top, bottom and two middle pieces. The top piece is the lid which has the grinding teeth. The second piece is the bottom grinding piece that has holes for herbs to fall through in addition to the teeth. The third piece is the mesh screen that stores a stash of grinded flower and allows herbs to fall into the final chamber, being the herb collector/storage.
Bongs vs Bubblers. How do I choose the right one for me?
What is a Dab?
Dabs are completely different from the flower. They are made from the leftover plant material from your cannabis, like the stems and other things that you wouldn’t want to smoke. All of that material is concentrated into oil using butane. Dab oil has a lot higher concentration than flower because the extraction method leaves only THC and terpenes, giving the user a much cleaner and more potent high. Dabbing is considered to be a much cleaner method of using cannabis, as opposed to the traditional method of smoking dried cannabis. Dabs are also more efficient because the user needs to use less BHO concentrate to achieve the desired effect.
There are also different types of concentrates:
Shatter - Shatter has the consistency of glass and will break easily when pressure is applied to it.
Budder - Has a thicker consistency, and generally has a lighter color, resembling cooking cannabutter.
Wax/Crumble – This type of concentrate easily breaks up and crumbles in your fingers. This feature sometimes allows it to be malleable, and makes it easier to portion out your concentrates.
Live Resin – This concentrate is made with fresh plants that have been frozen.
A relatively new form of concentrate that is made with fresh plants that have been frozen, rather than cut and dried.
CO2 Oil - This form of concentrate is what is used in e-liquid vaporizers, usually sold in pre-manufactured cartridges in dispensaries.
How do I take my first Dab?
1. You’ll need a Dab Rig
You preferably need one made from high quality borosilicate glass. Dab Rigs are different from a traditional bong because instead of a bowl where you would normally load your herbs, you have a nail which you’ll light with a butane torch, instead of a lighter. For more information on Dab Rig’s, see our “What’s the difference between a Bong and a Dab Rig” here.
2. You’ll need a Nail
The main types of nails that can be found are made from glass, quartz, titanium, or ceramic. Nails are either domed or not. A domed nail is a nail that is surrounded by a glass bubble, which keeps the vapor from dissipating into the air. Domes also ensure that you don’t accidentally touch the heated nail. The dome can be removed when you are heating the nail. For more information on Nails, see our “Nail Purchasing Guide” here.
3.Gather Your Materials
You’ll need to ensure that you have all the tools that you need to dab. You’ll need a butane torch, a dabber, a silicone container with your concentrate, a nail, and your Dab Rig.
4. Heating The Nail
Light Your Nail. When you’re lighting your nail you want to ensure that you light it to the right temperature. If you are using a domed nail, take the dome off the nail before lighting it. When you’ve reached the right temperature your nail will glow. Make sure you are paying attention to the temperature of your nail. If you get the nail too hot, you could break it. If the nail isn’t hot enough, then your concentrate will not vaporize properly, and you’ll waste your dab. Various nail types have different ideal dabbing temperatures, so research your nail and practice.
After heating your nail to the correct temperature, you’ll take your dabber with your concentrate on it and place it inside of your nail. If you are using a domed nail, place the dome on the nail before putting the dabber on it.
6. Take The Hit
Inhale, just as you would taking a normal bong hit. Repeat as necessary.
What is the difference between a Bong and an Oil Dab Rig?
Consumption + Method:
- Bongs are used for smoking dried flower, which is loaded into the bowl, lit with a lighter and inhaling the smoke through the mouthpiece.
- Dab/Oil Rigs are used as a way to consume vapor from using a THC concentrate that is usually referred to as “wax.” “honey,” or “oil” also using a torch and a nail.
- A Bong ends on a female joint and is intended for use with a flower bowl which usually has a male connection.
- A Dab/Oil Rig ends on a male joint for use with a nail that has a female connection that is used to vaporize the THC concentrate.
- Bongs are typically larger than a dab/oil rig because the flower is being combusted rather than vaporized meaning the smoke will travel the length of the bong without dissipating.
- Dab/Oil rigs are smaller as the vapor needs to travel a shorter distance in order to stay potent and flavoursome.
A Dab/Oil rig setup will typically be more expensive than a bong setup. In addition to purchasing a Rig, you’ll also need a nail and other dabbing accessories, such as a torch, dabber, silicone container, etc.
Particular Bongs can still be used to dab, however Dab Rigs cannot smoke flower. All you need is the appropriate adapters to match your Bong.
Why use a Carb Cap when dabbing?
A carb cap will positively impact the way you dab after using it. A carb cap is used as a covering for your domeless nail that restricts airflow to one small opening on the cap. This greatly increases the pressure within your water pipe, and allows the concentrate to vaporize at a lower temperature. It also allows you to vaporize every last bit of your dab. You can cap your nail towards the end of the dab when the nail has started to cool down, and there is leftover concentrate still in the dish. The cap creates pressure, decreases the vaporizing point, and that leftover bubbling concentrate burns right up into sweet, sweet, vapor.
Are Tar/Ash Catchers worth it?
A Tar Catcher is an attachment to your bong or Oil Rig that contains a water chamber with a percolator before entering the bong. They are attached to your bong’s joint, and you place the bowl on the end of the Tar Catcher. They typically fit standard joint sizes. Their purpose is to catch the ash from your bowl before it reaches your bong. By catching the majority of the ash in the Tar Catcher’s water chamber, your bong stays cleaner for longer. Tar Catcher’s create a much smoother hit due to the perculator. They do however add a significant amount of drag to your hits because there is another water chamber and perculator to pull through. Another thing to consider is that it adds weight to one side of your bong making it easier to tip over if it doesn’t have a solid base. If you are unsure of whether a bong on our website can hold a Tar Catcher, please contact us directly via Live Chat or email: firstname.lastname@example.org.
What’s the difference between Heady and Scientific Glass?
Heady glass is always visually striking with amazingly bright colours and fascinating glass shapes and designs that are generally not seen in the scientific glass lines. Heady glass pieces are usually hand blown meaning that they are one of a kind, individually unique, and aren’t mass produced. Heady Glass is very artistically focused with visually pleasing effects such as fumed glass, sandblasting, accents, sculpting and more.
Scientific Glass tend to be more mass produced with consistent quality. Visually, they are more of a clean, technical style with clear glass. However many are coloured or have coloured accents. Scientific Glass is capable of containing more delicate and complex perculators with advanced glass manipulating techniques.